In a room rampant with cozy charm, solid wood, tin ceiling tiles and wall-mounted animal heads, Native Tongues, a Mexican taqueria on Calgary’s 12th Avenue SW, is serving up authentic dishes with an Albertan flare..

GayCalgary was privy to a multi-course tasting on an overcast fall day, the clouds brimming up with drizzle, in the warm ambience of Native Tongues.

We started with a hearty pozole – the wonderful Mexican soup that combines bucksome kernels of hominy with various broths; in this case, a delicious blend of five chilles, carnitas (pulled pork), cabbage, radish and fresh crema.

We were then tabled with three antojitos, or starters: zanahorias - roasted carrots in beurre blanc, drizzled with Serrano crema, crumbled fresh cheese and chili; hongos al ajillo - mushrooms accompanied with grilled calabaza (squash), herbs and crema; and finally camarones al chimole, prawns in a herbed butter with chili,, served with delectable, locally made tortillas.

Our taco mains included a beautiful arrangement of pescaditos, crispy beer-battered trout over a lively eschabeche (pickled slaw) with spicy aioli and micro-herbs; and a 12-ounce rib-eye con papas y cebollas, crispy frites and onion tendrils.

While all the dishes were rife with spice, some could have used a sparser dashing of salt. The chimole butter that accompanied the beef was unusual but not as pleasing a flavour as many of the Mexican salsas that accompany a standard carne asada.

A perfect lime margarita – shaken, not blended – eased the full-flavoured items down, while a mildly sweet, flower garnished tres leches concluded the meal. I found this latter item to be rather dry, however the next time I sit down to a feast at Native Tongues – and there most definitely will be a next time – I look forward to trying the flan Mexicana that is offered in the postres section of the menu.

Related Articles

Contributor Janine Eva Trotta |

Locale Calgary |

Topic Food |