A trip to Hawaii requires a greater investment of time and money than to just about any other U.S. destination, but when planned carefully, the rewards are unrivaled. The 50th state lies about 2,500 miles from Southern California, its nearest major land mass. The flora, fauna, and natural beauty of this rugged archipelago are unique in the Western Hemisphere, and each of the four major islands that make up the Hawaiian chain varies tremendously in terrain, diversions, and personality. Whereas most mainland destinations can be enjoyed over a long weekend, Hawaii is best explored over at least a week two if you can possibly manage it.
The creature least likely to enjoy a visit to Hawaii is the gay single traveler with high expectations of finding romance (the gay single traveler with low expectations of finding romance may have a terrific time, however). While hooking up here isn’t unheard of, it tends to happen more by accident than by design. Honolulu (and its resort community Waikiki), may buzz with commerce, shopping, dining, and other big-city diversions, but it has only a smattering of gay bars. Waikiki has a handful of gay bars, but overall the GLBT nightlife scene here is far mellower than in most cities this size. The island of Hawaii (or Big Island) has a small gay bar.
Hawaii is most definitely a destination geared toward couples, so romantics should plan to bring along their own lover.
Oahu located in the state’s capital Honolulu, is home to about 900,000 people (70 percent of the state’s population). Many visitors base themselves here because of the plethora of high-rise beachside hotels in Waikiki, the dazzling variety of restaurants and shops, the ease of getting around without a car, and the presence of Hawaii’s major international airport. Waikiki has also enjoyed a dramatic makeover during the past decade, but it’s still a densely developed neighborhood that lacks the elbow room and mellow vibe common on neighbor islands. Most of the big beachside hotels have undergone impressive renovations of late, greatly increasingly the quality of accommodations. But Waikiki still has a number of rather bland high-rise properties, and if you visit only this stretch of (albeit beautiful) sand, you won’t really come away with a particularly rich sense of the state of Hawaii.
The ideal time to see Oahu is during the first few days of your visit, as Waikiki is walkable and downtown Honolulu offers the kinds of cultural attractions Iolani Palace, Chinatown, Doris Duke’s Shangri La Foundation for Islamic Art, the Bishop Museum you might be most in the mood to appreciate having just arrived from the mainland (once you experience the more pristine and peaceful neighbor islands, you’ll probably have considerably less interest in urban diversions). No visit to Oahu is complete without a drive around the island’s splendid Windward Coast and North Shore, which can be managed easily in a day (the only day you might consider renting a car, which is unnecessary unless you plan to leave Honolulu and Waikiki).
The island of Hawaii (known most commonly as “the Big Island”) is about twice the size of the other islands combined. There’s considerable resort development along the western (Kohala) coastline, distinctive for its arid and beautifully desolate terrain, characterized by massive black fields of lava rock. Ideally, you should try to spend at least three days on the Big Island, one to drive to the verdant tropical eastern coast, which is anchored by the small, historic city of Hilo. Dedicate another day to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which comprises two active (and occasionally flowing) volcanoes and countless trails and campsites. And spend your final day driving north into the upcountry ranching community of Waimea, and beyond that to the breathtakingly rugged Hamakua Coast.
In terms of scenery, the one Hawaiian island that comes closest to living up to the expectations of many first-time visitors is Kauai, a relatively small but magnificently lush isle of rainforests, towering seaside cliffs, and secluded beaches. Hikers flock to Na Pali Coast State Park, which is on the remote northwestern tip of the island, just beyond the picturesque village of Hanalei (which has been the setting for such films as South Pacific, Indiana Jones and Jurassic Park.
The eastern side is dominated by the waterfalls of the Wailua River Valley (home to several gay-friendly B&Bs), and the southern side by Poipu’s beaches and grand resorts. Kauai remains largely unspoiled and slow-paced, an ideal spot for devotees of the outdoors; loyal admirers often vacation here exclusively and skip the other islands.
One island virtually any traveler could encamp happily on for a full week or more is diverse and dramatic Maui, the second-most populated and developed of Hawaii’s islands. Longtime visitors fret that the rate at which tourism has boomed here has diminished Maui’s appeal, but a quick glance at Waikiki should convince anybody that development could be far more intense. Maui’s resorts are sophisticated and relatively new (most built over the past two to three decades), and fine restaurants and shops abound along the west coast, which is also where you’ll find the best and sunniest beaches. The island’s must-do activities are a drive to the 10,023 foot Mt. Haleakala, a dormant volcano whose peak offers unrivaled views of the Pacific Ocean; and an all-day drive to the sleepy village of Hana, set in the richly verdant southeast side of Maui.
Great Hawaiian Sleeps
Hawaii is rife with gay-friendly accommodations, from luxurious full-service resorts to modest upcountry B&Bs. Distinguishing the duds from the winners can take a bit of research, so spend a little time perusing both gay and mainstream books and websites before investing time and money into your accommodations. Determine how much you’re willing to spend, the intimacy and clientele you seek, and the setting you desire. And remember that many Hawaiian hotels and inns require a significant portion of the payment up front, so avoid committing to a place you haven’t heard good things about from at least three reliable sources the differences between dreamy and dreary can be extreme among Hawaiian hotels.
There are dozens of fine properties across the archipelago, but here are a handful of the best:
Embassy Suites Waikiki, Oahu. This well-run, twin-tower, all-suites property is across the street from one of the prettiest stretches of beach on Waikiki. Rooms are spacious and reasonably priced, and many upscale shops and eateries are within a quick stroll.
Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui. Accommodations at this Moorish-inspired hotel at the posh Wailea Resort are among the largest and most beautiful in Hawaii, each with about 1,000 square feet of living space, Italian marble baths, kitchen facilities, high-end entertainment centers, and room for two couples.
Four Seasons Hualalai, Big Island. There are deluxe resort hotels in Hawaii, and then there’s the Four Seasons Hualani, which consists of spacious rooms set within secluded three and four-unit clusters facing either the ocean or golf courses. Private entrances, expansive lanais, a state-of-the-art health club and spa, and parklike grounds set this compound apart from the competition.
Four Seasons, Maui. A stunning U-shape hotel with an incredible collection of local, contemporary art, a fantastic spa (treatments can be enjoyed in open-air hales by the ocean), three superb restaurants, and the most attuned and solicitous staff in all of Hawaii make this the ultimate luxe getaway.
Grand Hyatt, Kauai. Built with native Hawaiian materials and designs and furnished with a fascinating collection of native art and antiquities, this elegant, gay-friendly resort is head-and-shoulders above the rest on Kuaui. The setting at Kauai’s fancy Poipu Resort incorporates 5 acres of swimming lagoons, a huge fitness center and spa, and a multitude of fine restaurants.
Hale Ohia Cottages, Big Island. This airy and cheerfully furnished seven room complex is nestled amid pine trees and ferns in the shadows of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park it’s one of the better values on the Big Island. The elegant cottages and suites sleep from two to five persons and some have kitchen facilities.
Horizon Guest House, Big Island. This super luxurious guest house offers amenities and furnishings on par with any of Hawaii’s top resorts but with the intimacy and seclusion of your own private ranch. Each of the four units afford unparalleled ocean views, as does the in-ground infinity pool and sweeping grounds on a 40 acre mountainside high above the Pacific.
JW Marriott Ihilani, Oahu. One of the only resorts on the island that’s removed from the busy Waikiki scene, the handsomely appointed Ihilani sits along the sun-kissed west coast, affording guests incredible sunsets. Rooms are swanky and contemporary.
If you’re planning to visit all four islands, you might consider staying with Hawaii’s gay-friendly Outrigger Hotels chain, which has about 25 hotels and condos throughout the state, most in Waikiki (the beachfront Reef and Waikiki properties are the best on Oahu, and the Outrigger Aina Nalu on Maui is also a standout). With one call to Outrigger’s central reservation service, you can book comfortable and moderately priced accommodations across the state of Hawaii.
Andrew Collins is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA and eight additional travel guides.
