The recent legalization of same-sex marriage in New York has
given a number of classic romantic vacation spots throughout the state's
northern and western regions. Of particular note are the Adirondacks and the
Finger Lakes, two areas that abound with gorgeous natural scenery and charming
accommodations; the former is also a renowned winemaking region. Near the
Finger Lakes, the progressive, culturally vibrant city of Rochester is a better
choice if you're seeking an affordable, gay-friendly urban weekend getaway.
Here's a quick profile of these three upstate New York
destinations steadily earning cache with the LGBT market.
The Adirondacks
Made up of more than 46 peaks that soar above 4,000 feet and
a mix of hardscrabble villages and dapper resort towns, the Adirondacks region
(visitadirondacks.com) encompasses one of the largest state parks in the
country. The park's southern gateway is Lake George, a well-developed vacation
center popular with families and rife with amusements, from riverboat cruises
to minigolf centers.
Venture north along Rtes. 28 and 30 through North Creek,
Blue Mountain Lake, Long Lake, and Tupper Lake and you'll discover some of the
prettiest road-tripping, hiking and boating in the Northeast. Key attractions
in these parts include the Adirondack Museum, a rambling 32-acre living-history
museum that traces the region's history in fascinating detail, and the Wild
Center, where clever exhibits interpret everything from local wildlife to the
geology of the Adirondack's soaring peaks. Or head up Interstate 87, taking
Rte. 73 west to reach storied Lake Placid, a lively hub of recreation and
relaxation that's hosted the Winter Olympics on two occasions.
Many of the swankier dining options in these parts are in
Lake Placid, with Brown Dog Cafe and Wine Bar, Red's Eats, Caffe Rustica and
Eat 'n Meet Grill (in Saranac Lake) scoring high marks for great food and
inviting settings. A New Leaf Coffeehouse is a funky stop for java, and in a
wooded grove between Lake Placid and Saranac Lake, kitschy Tail-O'-Pup makes a
fun stop for a lobster roll or a platter of barbecue ribs (you'll find
affordable cabins on-site, too). Down in the area's southern reaches, check out
casual Basil and Wicks in North Creek for well-prepared comfort favorites, or
nearby BarVino for creative regional American fare.
Both members of the revered Relais & Chateaux group, the
upscale Lake Placid Lodge (lakeplacidlodge.com) and ultra-exclusive, completely
secluded Point Resort (thepointresort.com) are among the plushest
accommodations in the Adirondacks. The historic family-operated and quite
gay-friendly Mirror Lake Inn (mirrorlakeinn.com) is less pricey but still
upscale, with an excellent spa and three restaurants on-site as well. In the
heart of downtown Lake Placid, the Haus on Mirror Lake (thehauslp.com) has
handsome rooms with full kitchens and contemporary Adirondack furniture.
Other good LGBT-welcoming bets around the area include the
charming Porcupine Lodge (theporcupine.com) in Saranac Lake, and the tidy and
affordable Shamrock Motel & Cottages (shamrockmotellonglake.com) on the
shores of Long Lake. Farther south in the village of Chestertown, Fern Lodge
(thefernlodge.com) is an intimate B&B with spacious, warmly furnished rooms
and a lovely setting on a tiny lake, and the nearby Friends Lake Inn (friendslake.com)
is also quite nice.
The Finger Lakes
For its acclaimed Riesling as well as increasingly
well-regarded Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, the Finger Lakes wine
region (fingerlakeswinecountry.com) has developed into top winemaking area in
the eastern United States. More than 100 wineries thrive in this land of 11
deep, narrow lakes.
Seneca Lake (senecalakewine.com) is at the center of the
wine country, but neighboring Cayuga (cayugawinetrail.com) and Keuka
(keukawinetrail.com) lakes also have plenty of prominent wineries. Some
highlights include Red Newt Cellars, the purview of openly gay winemaker
Brandon Seager and the home of a sensational restaurant. Just down the road,
Atwater Estate turns out terrific Cabernet Franc and Riesling and has also been
a venue of same-sex weddings (the lake view is impressive). Wagner Vineyards
produces not only a bounty of great wines but also well-crafted microbrews. And
Finger Lakes Distilling earns kudos for its aromatic gin, bourbons and
distinctive aperitifs. Also consider Miles Wine Cellars, Anthony Road, Hermann
J. Wiemer and Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, a Riesling legend on Keuka
Lake.
Other highlights in these parts include the liberal college
town of Ithaca (visitithaca.com), home to Ithaca College and the main campus of
Cornell University, as well as such cultural gems as the Hangar Theater and
Kitchen Theatre, and the Cayuga Nature Center, with its many trails and animal
enclosures. Also spend some time in the small, rejuvenated city of Corning,
home to excellent Corning Museum of Glass, which showcases a collection of
glassworks dating back 35 centuries; the Rockwell Museum of Western Art, with
an outstanding collection of Western and Native American artworks; and the
several blocks of distinctive shops, galleries, and restaurants that make up
the Gaffer Historic District.
For dining, favorites along the Seneca Lake shoreline
include the Stonecat Cafe, which serves boldly seasoned, rustic American fare,
and Suzanne, which occupies a rambling old farmhouse and serves artfully plated
dinners with the same genial pace and warm service you might encounter at a
dinner party. In nearby Ithaca, students get their fix of cheap and authentic
ethnic food at Saigon Kitchen and Sticky Rice Thai & Laotian, and
coffeehouse culture thrives at Collegetown Bagels up on the hill near Cornell's
campus as well as downtown. Near here, the urbane Just A Taste Wine & Tapas
serves stellar Spanish-inspired small plates, the cozy Carriage House Cafe
turns out delicious breakfasts and lunches, and iconic Moosewood Restaurant
draws devotees of vegetarian cooking. Noteworthy in Corning are
cheap-and-cheerful Atlas Brick Over Pizzeria and elegant Three Birds
Restaurant.
Gay nightlife is limited in these parts, but Ithaca bars are
quite mixed gay/straight—especially Felicia's Atomic Age and the Oasis
– and not too far from the area, you'll find gay in Elmira (Chill) and
Binghamton (Merlins).
An excellent base for wine-touring at the southern tip of
Seneca Lake, the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel (watkinsglenharborhotel.com)
contains 104 airy and modern rooms, many with water views, as well as the
excellent Blue Pointe Grille. In Ithaca, you can enjoy the solicitous service
of staffers from the prestigious Cornell School of Hotel Administration at the
Statler Hotel (statlerhotel.cornell.edu), and a full resort experience at La
Tourelle Resort and Spa (www.latourelle.com), which has a very good spa as well
as the excellent Simply Red Bistro and John Thomas Steakhouse.
Quirkier, more distinctive inns proliferate in these parts,
including a few romantic gay-owned options: the sumptuous, art-filled Juniper
Hill B&B (www.atjuniperhill.com) in Trumansburg; the John Morris Manor
(johnmorrismanor.com), overlooking the northern end of Cayuga Lake in Seneca
Falls; the Black Walnut B&B (blackwalnutny.com), which dates to 1804; and
the Greek Revival Hillcrest Manor (corninghillcrestmanor.com) in Corning. In
downtown Ithaca, the gay-friendly, Queen Anne–style William Henry Miller Inn (www.millerinn.com)
is another great option.
Rochester
More than any other city in upstate New York, the urbane
educational and business hub of Rochester (visitrochester.com) has long
cultivated a progressive bent. It's the hometown of women's suffragist Susan B.
Anthony, whose home is now a museum, and a strong corporate environment (Kodak,
Xerox, Bausch & Lomb) continues to support a robust arts scene.
Rochester's must-see attraction, the George Eastman House
International Museum of Photography and Film, contains a trove of exhibits
related to the history of photography and also presents intriguing rotating
shows. Other enjoyable diversions include the Memorial Art Gallery and the
Rochester Museum & Science Center.
For a relatively small city, Rochester supports a highly
sophisticated dining scene that complements that of the nearby Finger
Lakes—wine lists feature plenty of local wines, and many chefs in these parts
favor regional ingredients. Foodies shouldn't miss the Rochester Public Market,
which features not only gorgeous produce but also a handful of inexpensive
eateries. In the trendy Atlantic-University neighborhood, both Lento and
gay-owned Edibles earn acclaim for inventive cooking and lively ambience, as do
nearby spots like Mise en Place in the up-and-coming South Wedge district, and
Cafe Cibon in the hip Park Avenue area. You'll also find plenty of GLBT folks
sipping java at Equal Grounds in South Wedge and at Java's Cafe by downtown's
Eastman Theatre.
For gay nightlife, 140 Alexander is popular with college
students and younger scene-y sorts, and Tilt Nightclub revs up for dancing on
weekends. Elegant and fun mixed venues in South Wedge include Lux Lounge and
Solera Wine Bar. More intimate neighborhood haunts include Bachelor Forum and
Avenue Pub.
The city has several gay-friendly inns, among them the
Edward Harris House (www.edwardharrishouse.com), in the historic East Avenue
district, and Ellwanger Estate (ellwangerestate.com), on beautiful grounds in
the Mount Hope Preservation Garden neighborhood. Downtown's old-world Inn on
Broadway (innonbroadway.com) is an elegant boutique property with stunning
rooms. Close to Eastman House, the Strathallan Hotel (strathallan.com) is a
reasonably priced and comfortable option that's undergoing a top-to-bottom
renovation slated for completion in summer 2012. Also keep an eye out for East
Avenue Inn & Suites (theeastavenueinn.com) – this formerly dated and
dowdy property in a great neighborhood is receiving a major makeover, with new
rooms debuting this spring.